Sub-Tropical Organic Vegetable Gardening

including a detailed and deeply philosophical view of growing paw-paws or papaya

 
Please note that Old Vegetable Patch does not sell seed! All seed sellers and the Seed Savers' Network are listed on my seed supplier's page:Seed Suppliers (Australia)

holy cow india

Cow eating out of rubbish bin, Pushkar, India

Why Should I Grow These Weird Vegetables and Save the Seed from them? Surely the world only needs one type of bean and potato, so isn't this site a waste of time? The short answer to this is no, intergalactic scientists have proven beyond doubt that the universe requires at least 4442 different bean and 789 different potato varieties to maintain any semblance of normality. They say, 'too few types is just crazy talk, so go out and get growing'.

The range of biodiversity of vegetables is getting increasingly small. What does it matter? I don't know, perhaps it doesn't, perhaps science will invent pizzas that rehydrate from tiny little packages, just like in Back to the Future Part Two and no one is going to need a Golden Self Blanching celery as our nutrients will be derived from ground up bark mixed with minerals. But, if you enjoy having vegetables around anyway, be rest assured, if we don't grow these unusual ones in our gardens then we'll probably only see them in museums in the future and all the grooviness will disappear forever from the world and will not be nearly as exciting as Back to the Future Part Two. Or just be forgotten about altogether. Grow them and enjoy them while they are still with us. As with many things - such as the old Tasmanian Tiger, the Giant Wombats of central Australia and yo-yoes - we don't know how long they'll exist for.

Index

Growing Vegetables in a Dry Spot Using Old Milk Cartons

Organic Gardening Tips and Books for the Novices and even Experts

Advice Especially for the Sub-Tropical Organic Gardener

Australian Bush Vegetables

australian spinach

Australian Native Spinach

Australian Nuts

Beans

Colourful Carrots From Around the World

Companion Planting

Capsicums (Peppers)

Dhal for Surrealists

Eggplants (Aubergine)

Eggplant Game

Herbs

Lettuce

Nuts

Okra (Gumbo)

Onions + Garlic

Peas (petit pois)

Potatoes (pomme de terre)

Pumpkins (Halloween)

Spinach

Seed Suppliers Page (Australia)

eden seeds australia

Eden Seeds

greenpatch seeds

Greenpatch Organic Seeds

Green Harvest Seeds

Seed Savers' Network Byron Bay

Select Organic

Diggers Seeds

sunflower

Sunflowers

Sweet Potatoes

Tomatoes (Including diseases and fruitfly in tomatoes)

Tropical Fruits

Watermelons

Zucchini (Courgettes)

Green Paddocks Publishing and Producing Australia

The Chai Wallah Picture Publishing Project

Farming with Bev and Peter Brock in Nutfield

Bjork

Shiny Red Boots

Zen Cleaning Robot

Zen Cleaning Robot Book of Quotes

Green Paddock Pictures


When you look at gardening books, more often than not you'll find that they deal with climates that have warm, relatively short summers but cool to cold, and often long, winters. But what about all of us who live in what you might call a sub-tropical climate where winters are fairly warm (apart from the evenings) and summers just seem to go on and on and the humidity climbs to uncivilised heights by 6.30 a.m. in December (in the southern hemisphere). I'm talking about areas like Brisbane, Australia, where, if you put a glass hot house out in the backyard, you could probably cook yourself some pumpkin scones and baguettes for lunch and still have enough heat to whip up a pavlova for afternoon tea. A place where zucchinis, rather than flourish in the summer sun, can give up the ghost a decide it's all better left to mad dogs and English men. Well you've come to the right place for a bric-a-brac collection of advice which might help you get through it all.

One thing is to grow appropriate plants at appropriate times, For one thing strawberries, tomatoes and cabbages do best in winter in these parts (at least in Brisbane - you may have slight differences in your area, but you should still be able to follow some of this advice if you are at a similar latitude). Things like spinach, you are probably best to forget about, and also things like parsnip which sweeten with frosts - see all you cold climate gardeners complain about it but you do have some advantages. In the winter a good healthy salad garden could be established with lettuce, rocket, parsley, coriander and the like planted. In the summer you might have to ditch the rocket, but if you find a semi-shaded area, some lettuce and parsley will survive with adequate water. You should also experiment with different varieties of plants. For instance, go to my lettuce page (link on left) to see what different lettuce varieties there are available. And go to my Australian seed sellers page and have a look at some of the good seed companies who sell unusual varieties suited to hotter climates. Try Yugoslavian lettuce which does well in this climate, and also Darwin  lettuces for hotter times. In mid summer, provide some shade for these plants especially in the hottest part of the day - from about 11 to 2 and never ever let them dry out as they are shallow rooted plants. Mulch well and thickly.

In summer you can also try some salad substitutes such as Ceylon spinach and Egyptian spinach (check out Eden Seeds for these on my seed seller's page (link on left)). You should also not be shy with basil. Basil loves the heat and tolerates the humidity. If you check out Eden Seeds' page you'll also see that there are heaps of different varieties of basil you may never have thought of growing such as holy basil, lemon basil, Siam queen basil. There's also New Zealand spinach, also known as Australian spinach and Warrigul greens, which does well in the heat (see my Australian vegetable page linked on the left).

Summer can bring pests and other problems in these areas. For instance my tomatoes and capsicums are raided by Nordic-like barbarians known as Queensland fruitfly, who look innocent enough but who slash and hack - metaphorically - at the plants worse than any viking or Dane. They actually just lay their eggs in the fruit and inject a substance that makes the fruit rot and fall to the ground leaving squashy fruit with maggots wriggling around inside. I am inspired by non-violent action practiced by Gotoma Buddha and Ghandi and the like, so rather than retaliate and stomp them all and scream and yell and burn plants and spray chemicals that kill friendly insects as well as foes I just don't grow tomatoes and capsicums during the fruitfly breeding season - especially all the summer months. If I did I try and protect them with some fine agricultural netting (available for sale from some of the seed sellers on the seed sellers' page - who by the way don't pay me a cent or give me and free zucchini seed or agricultural netting). You could also try growing such things in a protected area within a chook pen - remembering that they need protection from the chooks but the chooks will provide some protection from the fruitfly. If it doesn't work at least you're getting free fruitfly larvae to feed the chooks - better than buying them from the shop.

Start thinking about tropical plants and trees. I'd especially try paw-paws or papaya - hey that deserves a new heading....

 Growing Organic Paw-paws or Papayas

Paw-paws, or papayas, as they are often called. Grow well in sub-tropical areas. They also provide a little shade for other plants to grow underneath. To grow them I suggest growing to a good organic market and purchasing a mixture of yellow and red ones over a period of a few weeks. With the best tasting most juicy ones I'd then scoop out the seed from the middle, eat the rest, then wash and dry out the seed a bit. Then I'd prepare the soil - actually you're probably best to prepare the soil a few weeks in advance. Get stacks of well composted horse manure, worms castings, some chicken manure and dolomite, and mix it around a bit. The dolomite is to sweeten the soil as paw-paws like the soil a little more alkaline and, in this area at least, the soil tend sot be acidic. In areas of high rainfall the soil probably is slightly acidic. To not confuse you too much dolomite equals acid soil turned to less acidic soil - follow instructions on the pack. If you have ever had heart burn it is similar to giving a giant antacid tablet (which might actually work, as they are mainly calcium). Anyway, you then mound up the soil, as paw-paws like good drainage and mulch heavily with some sugarcane and lucerne hay - about 15 cms. Sprinkle a little extra chook manure and dolomite into this, and, closer to fruiting, you might even want to add some potash.

In this mound you plant a few seeds. You really need to try and grow at least 4 or 5 trees on separate mounds as you require male and female paw-paws to get much fruit off your plants. They don't need to be planted that far apart, but at least 2 meters is pretty good. In between the plants. I know I called them trees first, but really they are a fast growing herbaceous plant that grows to about 2-3 meters - males grow slightly taller. Before I go on, you can tell males from females by the fact that males produce heaps of flowers but no fruit and females, fewer flowers and some fruit. There are bi-sexual varieties but they are apparently not as good. You only need one male between about six plants to get good fruit set. You should also try encouraging bees into your garden to help pollinate, but they seem to do this mostly by the wind. To attract bees plant lots of holy basil on the mounds, which flower over long periods, smell good, are easy to look after, self seed, and are generally absolutely fantastic - though not that nice to eat - for more on holy basil go to my index page.

In between these trees, not necessarily on the mounds, you can try planting lab-lab beans. These beans are a must for sub-tropical gardens, they grow vigorously and form a thick ground cover whilst also providing the soil with some nitrogen as they are legumous. They can also be slashed when the paw-paws are bigger and added to the compost heap or placed around the bottom of the trees for extra mulch.

Paw-paws grow fast, and if you plant the seed in autumn you might expect some fruit to start forming by the end of winter, when the plants should be around a metre or so in height if watered regularly. Remember the mounds are important, I've lost whole plants during heavy rain periods as they can't stand wet feet I think.

I think that's about it for paw-paws, just pick them when they are half orange (or reddish orange). For the philosophical angle, well there is none. Of course the message behind this is that you should be critical of everything you read. As the Buddha said, it must first make sense to you before you can accept it, blind faith is no good.

weird little fish

Some Last Words on the sub-tropic Garden

Well, I'm just going to list a few plants you might not have thought about for your garden under titles...

Bee and beneficial insect attractors

These are of course good for attracting bees. Flowers also help to attract beneficial predatory insects which will come and eat other bugs that eat your plants. You need bees to help plants like pumpkins and zucchinis set fruit. Sometimes pumpkins will lose their fruit before it is fully formed due to lack of bee action (and also during high heat and humidity)

For winter/ spring you can try borage, nasturtiums, salvias, cosmos, snapdragons and holy basil.

For summer try all varieties of basils, especially holy basil, also let parsley and coriander go to flower. You can also plant stacks of sunflowers. Plant these things in areas where you want good pollination, such as around the pumpkin patch.

Legume plants and soil improvers

These help to draw nitrogen into the soil, and naturally improve the soil.

Try pigeon peas, which also grow tall and provide some shade and nitrogen, lab-lab beans, as mentioned before, as well as snake beans, soya beans, chick peas a cow peas (all legumes). For soil improvers try yarrow, borage, comfrey and radishes - all these plants (except yarrow) put down deep roots and help to loosen the soil and bring nutrients up to the surface. The yarrow, borage and comfrey also help to accumulate trace elements and can be slashed and mulched or composted or made into teas to feed plants.

You can also grow plants primarily for mulch. Some plants which are good for this in the sub-tropics are lemon grass and citronella grass (two closely related species - I don't know if that's the right word I'm no good with biology, anyway they look almost identical), which both multiply profusely in the right conditions and which can be regularly trimmed to provide mulch or added to composts. You can also grow sugarcane, which can also provide a little shade and protection from wind for other plants, as well as being slashed from time to time to mulch or compost. I've been growing purple sugarcane which I got mail order from Greenpatch Seeds (link on left).

Another good technique for improving soils is to grow green manures. Green manure is basically a process of planting seeds then either slashing them or digging them into the soil when they are very young. In the sub-tropics young might try a mixture of oats, barley and aduki beans, in the cooler months. You can grow them to about 5 to 10 cm in height then cutting them back. This helps to improve soil structure.

Heat tolerant plants

Try things like okra, eggplants, pumpkins, rockmelons, watermelons, paw-paws (of course), snake beans, daikon radishes, all types of basils, sunflowers, corn, Egyptian spinach, Ceylon spinach, Australian spinach, zucchinis, cucumbers, Vietnamese mint, ginger, tuneric, midyim berries (an Australian native). With the curcubits listed here (cucumbers, rockmelons, pumpkins, zucchini) high humidity can be a problem due to problems with mildew, lessen the trouble by only watering the base of the plant, in the mornings, and not the leaves and to provide some shade from the mid-day sun. Remember when they say full sun in a gardening book they might be meaning some weak English or Dutch variety not the brain-draining body straining types we can get in the sub-tropics. For those in the tropics, well I'd also suggest growing crocodiles as they don't seem to survive in these parts.






Index


e-mail:greenpaddocks@gmail.com

copyright J.R. Atwood 2007