When
you look at gardening books, more often than not you'll find that they
deal with climates that have warm, relatively short summers but cool to
cold, and often long, winters. But what about all of us who live in
what you might call a sub-tropical climate where winters are fairly
warm (apart from the evenings) and summers just seem to go on and on
and the humidity climbs to uncivilised heights by 6.30 a.m. in December
(in the southern hemisphere). I'm talking about areas like Brisbane,
Australia, where, if you put a glass hot house out in the backyard, you
could probably cook yourself some pumpkin scones and baguettes for
lunch and still have enough heat to whip up a pavlova for afternoon
tea. A place where zucchinis, rather than flourish in the summer sun,
can give up the ghost a decide it's all better left to mad dogs and
English men. Well you've come to the right place for a bric-a-brac
collection of advice which might help you get through it all.
One thing is to grow appropriate plants at appropriate times, For one
thing strawberries, tomatoes and cabbages do best in winter in these
parts (at least in Brisbane - you may have slight differences in your
area, but you should still be able to follow some of this advice if you
are at a similar latitude). Things like spinach, you are probably best
to forget about, and also things like parsnip which sweeten with frosts
- see all you cold climate gardeners complain about it but you do have
some advantages. In the winter a good healthy salad garden could be
established with lettuce, rocket, parsley, coriander and the like
planted. In the summer you might have to ditch the rocket, but if you
find a semi-shaded area, some lettuce and parsley will survive with
adequate water. You should also experiment with different varieties of
plants. For instance, go to my lettuce page (link on left) to see what
different lettuce varieties there are available. And go to my
Australian seed sellers page and have a look at some of the good seed
companies who sell unusual varieties suited to hotter climates. Try
Yugoslavian lettuce which does well in this climate, and also
Darwin lettuces for hotter times. In mid summer, provide some
shade for these plants especially in the hottest part of the day - from
about 11 to 2 and never ever let them dry out as they are shallow
rooted plants. Mulch well and thickly.
In summer you can also try some salad substitutes such as Ceylon
spinach and Egyptian spinach (check out Eden Seeds for these on my seed
seller's page (link on left)). You should also not be shy with basil.
Basil loves the heat and tolerates the humidity. If you check out Eden
Seeds' page you'll also see that there are heaps of different varieties
of basil you may never have thought of growing such as holy basil,
lemon basil, Siam queen basil. There's also New Zealand spinach, also
known as Australian spinach and Warrigul greens, which does well in the
heat (see my Australian vegetable page linked on the left).
Summer can bring pests and other problems in these areas. For
instance my tomatoes and capsicums are raided by Nordic-like barbarians
known as Queensland fruitfly, who look innocent enough but who slash
and hack - metaphorically - at the plants worse than any viking or
Dane. They actually just lay their eggs in the fruit and inject a
substance that makes the fruit rot and fall to the ground leaving
squashy fruit with maggots wriggling around inside. I am inspired by
non-violent action practiced by Gotoma Buddha and Ghandi and the like,
so rather than retaliate and stomp them all and scream and yell and
burn plants and spray chemicals that kill friendly insects as well as
foes I just don't grow tomatoes and capsicums during the fruitfly
breeding season - especially all the summer months. If I did I try and
protect them with some fine agricultural netting (available for sale
from some of the seed sellers on the seed sellers' page - who by the
way don't pay me a cent or give me and free zucchini seed or
agricultural netting). You could also try growing such things in a
protected area within a chook pen - remembering that they need
protection from the chooks but the chooks will provide some protection
from the fruitfly. If it doesn't work at least you're getting free
fruitfly larvae to feed the chooks - better than buying them from the
shop.
Start thinking about tropical plants and trees. I'd especially try paw-paws or papaya - hey that deserves a new heading....
Growing Organic Paw-paws or Papayas
Paw-paws,
or papayas, as they are often called. Grow well in sub-tropical areas.
They also provide a little shade for other plants to grow underneath.
To grow them I suggest growing to a good organic market and purchasing a
mixture of yellow and red ones over a period of a few weeks. With the
best tasting most juicy ones I'd then scoop out the seed from the
middle, eat the rest, then wash and dry out the seed a bit. Then I'd
prepare the soil - actually you're probably best to prepare the soil a
few weeks in advance. Get stacks of well composted horse manure, worms
castings, some chicken manure and dolomite, and mix it around a bit.
The dolomite is to sweeten the soil as paw-paws like the soil a little
more alkaline and, in this area at least, the soil tend sot be acidic.
In areas of high rainfall the soil probably is slightly acidic. To not
confuse you too much dolomite equals acid soil turned to less acidic
soil - follow instructions on the pack. If you have ever had heart burn
it is similar to giving a giant antacid tablet (which might actually
work, as they are mainly calcium). Anyway, you then mound up the soil,
as paw-paws like good drainage and mulch heavily with some sugarcane
and lucerne hay - about 15 cms. Sprinkle a little extra chook manure and
dolomite into this, and, closer to fruiting, you might even want to add
some potash.
In
this mound you plant a few seeds. You really need to try and grow at
least 4 or 5 trees on separate mounds as you require male and female
paw-paws to get much fruit off your plants. They don't need to be
planted that far apart, but at least 2 meters is pretty good. In
between the plants. I know I called them trees first, but really
they are a fast growing herbaceous plant that grows to about 2-3 meters
- males grow slightly taller. Before I go on, you can tell males from
females by the fact that males produce heaps of flowers but no fruit
and females, fewer flowers and some fruit. There are bi-sexual
varieties but they are apparently not as good. You only need one male
between about six plants to get good fruit set. You should also try
encouraging bees into your garden to help pollinate, but they seem to do
this mostly by the wind. To attract bees plant lots of holy basil on
the mounds, which flower over long periods, smell good, are easy to
look after, self seed, and are generally absolutely fantastic - though
not that nice to eat - for more on holy basil go to my index page.
In
between these trees, not necessarily on the mounds, you can try
planting lab-lab beans. These beans are a must for sub-tropical
gardens, they grow vigorously and form a thick ground cover whilst
also providing the soil with some nitrogen as they are legumous. They
can also be slashed when the paw-paws are bigger and added to the
compost heap or placed around the bottom of the trees for extra mulch.
Paw-paws
grow fast, and if you plant the seed in autumn you might expect some
fruit to start forming by the end of winter, when the plants should be
around a metre or so in height if watered regularly. Remember the
mounds are important, I've lost whole plants during heavy rain periods
as they can't stand wet feet I think.
I
think that's about it for paw-paws, just pick them when they are half
orange (or reddish orange). For the philosophical angle, well there is
none. Of course the message behind this is that you should be critical
of everything you read. As the Buddha said, it must first make sense to
you before you can accept it, blind faith is no good.

Some Last Words on the sub-tropic Garden
Well, I'm just going to list a few plants you might not have thought about for your garden under titles...
Bee and beneficial insect attractors
These are of course
good for attracting bees. Flowers also help to attract beneficial
predatory insects which will come and eat other bugs that eat your
plants. You need bees to help plants like pumpkins and zucchinis set
fruit. Sometimes pumpkins will lose their fruit before it is fully
formed due to lack of bee action (and also during high heat and
humidity)
For winter/ spring you can try borage, nasturtiums, salvias, cosmos, snapdragons and holy basil.
For summer try all
varieties of basils, especially holy basil, also let parsley and
coriander go to flower. You can also plant stacks of sunflowers. Plant
these things in areas where you want good pollination, such as around
the pumpkin patch.
Legume plants and soil improvers
These help to draw nitrogen into the soil, and naturally improve the soil.
Try pigeon peas,
which also grow tall and provide some shade and nitrogen, lab-lab
beans, as mentioned before, as well as snake beans, soya beans, chick
peas a cow peas (all legumes). For soil improvers try yarrow, borage,
comfrey and radishes - all these plants (except yarrow) put down deep
roots and help to loosen the soil and bring nutrients up to the
surface. The yarrow, borage and comfrey also help to accumulate trace
elements and can be slashed and mulched or composted or made into teas to feed plants.
You can also grow
plants primarily for mulch. Some plants which are good for this in the
sub-tropics are lemon grass and citronella grass (two closely related
species - I don't know if that's the right word I'm no good with
biology, anyway they look almost identical), which both multiply
profusely in the right conditions and which can be regularly trimmed to
provide mulch or added to composts. You can also grow sugarcane, which
can also provide a little shade and protection from wind for other
plants, as well as being slashed from time to time to mulch or compost.
I've been growing purple sugarcane which I got mail order from
Greenpatch Seeds (link on left).
Another good
technique for improving soils is to grow green manures. Green manure is
basically a process of planting seeds then either slashing them or
digging them into the soil when they are very young. In the sub-tropics
young might try a mixture of oats, barley and aduki beans, in the
cooler months. You can grow them to about 5 to 10 cm in height then
cutting them back. This helps to improve soil structure.
Heat tolerant plants
Try things like
okra, eggplants, pumpkins, rockmelons, watermelons, paw-paws (of
course), snake beans, daikon radishes, all types of basils, sunflowers,
corn, Egyptian spinach, Ceylon spinach, Australian spinach, zucchinis,
cucumbers, Vietnamese mint, ginger, tuneric, midyim berries (an Australian native). With the curcubits listed here
(cucumbers, rockmelons, pumpkins, zucchini) high humidity can be a
problem due to problems with mildew, lessen the trouble by only watering the base of the plant, in the mornings, and not
the leaves and to provide some shade from the mid-day sun. Remember
when they say full sun in a gardening book they might be meaning some
weak English or Dutch variety not the brain-draining body straining
types we can get in the sub-tropics. For those in the tropics, well I'd
also suggest growing crocodiles as they don't seem to survive in these
parts.
Index
e-mail:greenpaddocks@gmail.com
copyright J.R. Atwood 2007
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