Pumpkin
Pumpkin is the
most vigorous plant of this group of Cucurbits and grows on long vines
which spread out over the ground and even climb up trellises and onto
rooves, if given guidance and adequate support (especially when they
fruit as their size can snap the somewhat delicate stem (which is
hollow)). Training pumpkins over rooves saves a great deal of space and
can also prevent the mature pumpkins from rotting due to resting for
too long on wet ground.

It is important
to make sure that the base of the vine has plenty of rich soil and/or
compost around it as they are one of the heaviest feeders of all
vegetables. So prepare piles of organic matter, horse manure, chicken
manure, sugar cane mulch or lucerne hay and even grass clippings before
you plant your seed. You can make this pile very thick, though try and
avoid using to much fresh stuff, or if you do, wait a few weeks before
planting. They also need regular water and fertilising during the
entire length of there growing season. This attention is especially
important during their initial growth and I have noticed that vines
that do best have been planted at the end of spring (in the
sub-tropics) or the start of summer in cooler areas at a time of heavy
rain. Initial heavy rain and high humidity and temperature (soil
temperature over 25 degrees Celsius is ideal) will see a plant take off
at incredible speed. It is also important to allow for adequate time to
grow in cooler climates as they require most of summer and autumn to
grow successfully. Most take between 75 and 100 days to mature, so in
these areas, it is best to plan ahead and to try and grow varieties
which have been successful in the climate before.
In sub-tropical
climates, with longer summers and higher rainfall, you are a little bit
more flexible. In Brisbane, Australia, pumpkins take over during the
summer months when few other vegetables would flourish. The main thing
to remember is rich, rich soil, very similar to what you would give
watermelons or corn. Pumpkins don't seem to have the problem of
splitting open during hot weather, as watermelons do, so they can be
more successfully grown in full sun.
A
potty, zany type of Pottimarron Pumpkin sent in by a (scary) ghost
If you choose
good storing pumpkins such as Queensland Blue, Gold
Nugget, Warted Hubbard, Sweet
Mamma, Golden Acorn or Kentucky
Field, you'll be able to feed yourself for most of the year.
Some other good
varieties to keep your eye out for are Etamples, a
lovely old French variety with exceptional flavour, Halloween
Voodoo Pumpkin, a very psycho pumpkin which may cause harm, Kumikuri
(possibly pictured above) from Japan, Ebony Acorn,
which probably originated from the Arikara tribe in North Dakota, and
has very dark skin and sweet flesh, and Sweet Dumpling,
which has small fruits (around 10 cm in diameter) and loves to climb.
There are many
varieties which mature a little quicker than most, so in climates with
short summers it is best to look around your local area for seed. Old
gardeners are the best bet and most will have a stock of seed which I'm
sure they can be persuaded to share.

pumpkin
patch
Pumpkins
cross-pollinate very easily so if you want to make sure you are keeping
the variety you have pure, take measures to isolate it from different
varieties. The Seed Savers Network recommend a distance of about 400
metres between different varieties, but also make sure that you have a
few of the same variety in close proximity to allow for proper
pollination and to keep the strain strong.
Halloween
voodoo pumpkins
A quick and
uncomprehensive guide to difference in species in the genus Curcubita:
Pumpkins,
Squash and Zucchini all belong to the genus Cucurbita and all originate
in North and South America.
Cucurbita
maxima usually describes larger pumpkins, Cucurbita moschata for many
Butternut varieties and Cucurbita pepo for many of the small ones, and
squash. Zucchini is usually of the species pepo.
©
J R Atwood
e-mail: greenpaddocks@gmail.com

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