Old Vegie Patch

Companion Planting and Other Things about Plants that may Help you in the Garden

 

or how plants get along together in the vegetable garden without forgetting about good nutrition, soil, light and other such sensible things

Index

Growing Vegetables in a Dry Spot Using Old Milk Cartons

Organic Gardening Tips and Books for the Novices and even Experts

Advice Especially for the Sub-Tropical Organic Gardener

gren zebras

Green Zebra Tomatoes

Australian Bush Vegetables

australian spinach

Australian Native Spinach

Australian Nuts

Beans

Colourful Carrots From Around the World

Companion Planting

Capsicums (Peppers)

Dhal for Surrealists

Eggplants (Aubergine)

Eggplant Game

Herbs

Lettuce

Nuts

Okra (Gumbo)

Onions + Garlic

Peas (petit pois)

Potatoes (pomme de terre)

Pumpkins (Halloween)

Spinach

Seed Suppliers Page (Australia)

eden seeds australia

Eden Seeds

greenpatch seeds

Greenpatch Organic Seeds

Green Harvest Seeds

Seed Savers' Network Byron Bay

Select Organic

Diggers Seeds

sunflower

Sunflowers

Sweet Potatoes

Tomatoes (Including diseases and fruitfly in tomatoes)

Tropical Fruits

Watermelons

Zucchini (Courgettes)

Green Paddocks Publishing and Producing Australia

The Chai Wallah Picture Publishing Project

Farming with Bev and Peter Brock in Nutfield

Bjork

Shiny Red Boots

Zen Cleaning Robot

Zen Cleaning Robot Book of Quotes

Green Paddock Pictures


zen

Does the bee come to the flower or the flower to the bee?

The Zen Cleaning Robot


 

One of the most discussed techniques of an organic garden is companion planting. Companion planting is a very useful technique in the organic garden and can help maintain health in plants and a happy balance in the garden, even if it just an aesthetic one, such as putting pretty prostrate herbs like lawn chamomile and thyme and low growing flowers like petunias, alyssum and dwarf marigolds around the border of a vegetable patch. Ideally however things should have a duel purpose, as espoused in the idea of Permaculture. For instance these aesthetic attributes can also have a practical influence, such as the marigold's ability to deter nematodes in the soil and the chamomile's ability to attract bees, which help pollinate your zucchinis, tomatoes and watermelons, and other useful insects like predatory wasps which can keep down populations of other bugs. Plants like parsley, coriander and mitsuba (a Japanese herb) can also attract other beneficial insects to the garden and should be grown around the garden.

Certain plants can also be extremely useful for soil improvement, with many plants adding nutrients, or making nutrients and important trace elements available to other plants merely by their presence, or the addition of their leaves or flowers to the soil as teas or mulches. For example, it has been found that chamomile, buckwheat and daisies accumulate calcium even when grown in calcium-poor soils (Culture and Horticulture, Wolf D.Storl, 1979) and that valerian promotes phosphorous activity. It is also a well established practice by even conventional farmers to rotate heavy feeding crops, like sugar cane or corn, with legumous plants like peanuts, green beans, soya beans, or lentils and peas (according to the suitability of the climate). These legumous plants draw nitrogen from the air into the soil in such abundance that it is often available for the next crop's use. Potato farmers also have to rotate crops to avoid devastating diseases such as blight. Since we have such heavy reliance on chemical fertilisers and pesticides however, further experiments in companion planting seem to be neglected. And with the advent of genetically modified foods which try to create plants impervious to pest, diseases and pesticides such as roundup we are moving towards potentially unstable and plain stupid farming practices where plants are not bred to survive naturally, but to be propped up by a cocktail of chemicals. And worse still we are creating plants which may themselves become harmful weeds. Especially for the home gardener, old-fashioned varieties of plants are the best.

Apart from promoting nutrition in the soil, companion planting can provide other useful affects. For instance, low growing herbs or groundcovers such as Australian spinach and sweet potatoes, can help prevent erosion and the damaging effects of wild birds or chickens digging up bare soil, under fruit trees, or around annuals which are yet to mature (though I'm talking about the occasional visit of these birds not the permanent resident). One must be careful not to always assume that these plants will not compete with their intended companion, but for instance I have grown a nice cover of sweet potato under a small mango tree (probably won't work for a large one, but for a few years the two will work happily together), which not only kept the soil intact, but, to a certain extent, lessens the evaporation around the plant, as it provides some shade. I have also grown Australian spinach underneath small lemon trees - away from the trunk a bit. A lot of this type of companion growing is just a matter of observation and trial and error, working with the theoretical and practical knowledge one has of the nature of different plants.

Companion planting won't totally stop pests attacking a plant but there are some traditional companions that do seem to work okay. For instance: basil, marigolds and tomatoes; and borage, pyrethrum and strawberries, as well as the practice of planting fragrant herbs as borders to confuse pests, though pests are called pests for a reason, as they don't always fall for this trick. It is also important to have some perennial plants in the garden to provide accomodation for things like praying mantis and ladybeetles. Otherwise the poor things will be homeless and may wander the streets and get run over by cars and things. Better to provide them with long term accommodation and not to leave the garden bed totally bare at any stage. Even if it is just a corner of the garden, or what one could describe as a hippy habitat. Let's face it, we are not gods and we don't always necessarily know how things are working in our little ecosystem, so at least part of the garden should be left to grow with some little indigenous plants or pretty things that don't seem to have any use at all - part from being pretty.

As for other good companions (as listed in Storl's Culture and Horticulture, a bio-dynamic book, as well as anecdotal and personal experience), they are listed below:

  • Lawn chamomile grown under small Scotch pine (my invention).Cabbage planted with a border of dill and chamomile.Members of the umbellifer family such as parsley, celery, parsnips, mitsuba and carrot grown with the onion tribe - but also just generally beneficial, especially if you let the umbellifers flower (just leave them in the ground they'll eventually flower though sometimes not till the second year, as they are bi-annuals, as many of this family are). Since things like parsley also have deep roots, they are good for holding the soil in and for using nutrients not accessible to many other plants - borage is also good for this and in attracting bees.
  • Bush beans, tomatoes and sunflowers are a nice combination. The beans will be finished by the time the others really start to grow, and again, the sunflowers attract bees and predatory wasps who need nectar as well as bug blood.
  • cccu

  • Corn, beans, squash and cucumbers grow well together in America, and perhaps elswhere. I haven't found it that successful, and I was reading in The Permaculture Backyard, that others have found the same. I'd be inclined to grow lots of Greek oregano with cucumbers as it is meant to deter cucumber flies and I'd throw in a few more umbellifer. Umbellifers here there and everywhere should be your motto.
  • Leeks with celeriac or celery, are cool, as both like potash fertiliser.
  • Lentils, thickly planted, provide a good green manure around potatoes, pumpkin or tomatoes, just dig them in before they flower.
  • Lettuce and dill do well together.
  • Olive trees planted in fields of red clover look spectacular and the clover provides nitrogen and attracts bumble bees.
  • Radish like nasturtium, chervil and peas.
  • Actually heaps of things like nasturtiums so grow them as a border, especially on neighbour's fencelines and behind sheds and stuff.
  • Tomatoes like parsley and New Zealand Spinach.
  • Watermelons in the subtropics, can be planted very successfully with cow peas, which provide both a bit of shade and nitrogen.

So, there you have it, don't let some jerk tell you what's best to plant together, go out and experiment yourself. And never neglect your soil condition, which is one of the most important factors in a plant's health.

For more information on growing herbs click here… or check out the links on the side of the page.

 


Index 



e-mail:greenpaddocks@gmail.com


© J R Atwood 2007